Sunday, July 27, 2008

Dear Pen Pal,

I'm in Tel Aviv right now. I just got back from the beach and I'm seriously so dark and tan. I just saw a picture of myself on Facebook from a few days ago and I look Nigerian. It's not a bad thing because I desperately wanted to tan. 

So I get back to Boston this coming Tuesday. Ugh I really don't want to go back, but at the same time I do. I miss my bed, my fridge, my evening jogs along the Charles. I guess the only thing I don't miss is routine, daily life. I'm so over routine.

I love Svedka. I actually got drunk from it last night, our first night in Tel Aviv. And I had falafel this morning for my hung-over breakfast. I can't get over the food here. Except schnitzel. I cannot eat anymore of that stuff. I'll look out for that falafel place you mentioned. Oh! and I wanted to tell you about this juice bar near our hostel in Jaffa. It's incredible. I had a mango, strawberry and lychee fruit shake. I devoured it like no one's business. The perfect after-beach treat. 

Alright, off the shower and then explore the city a bit. 

XO,

Danny

Saturday, July 26, 2008

Everybody dance now

We're finally in Tel-Aviv. And we finally went to a gay club. We danced the night away and it was so much fun. 

Thursday, July 24, 2008

Maybe tomorrow

We're leaving Tzfat where we walked through the old streets of a vibrant artists' colony. The art there is outstanding and full of life, like the glass works and colorful paintings. Everything was a bit pricey so I didn't get a chance to buy what I wanted, like the $3000 hand-blown glass coffee table. I love the color red and I love pomegranates, so I wanted to buy a small painting of a pomegranate to put in my kitchen, but the prices were too high.

Along the way, we stepped into a small shop full of delicate jewelry and silver-crafts. The shop owner asked where we were from and what we were doing in Israel.  We told him we were studying the conflict. Almost confused, he asked why chose Israel over other places in the world. After all, he said, everyone has a conflict. We told him we honestly didn't know why we chose Israel. We were just drawn to it. 

He looked confused again, but this time he smiled. Slowly, almost in a fatherly way, he told us there's an orthodox word in Judaism that means both God and coincidence. He meant that there's a reason why we were in Israel, beyond what we know and that coincidences are only God's ripples in the water, a destiny.

I left the shop casually and continued to seek out treasures in the nearby shops. Along my path I noticed a little boy sitting on a white chair, wearing black pants and a white, long-sleeve white shirt. He was orthodox. 

When I passed him,  he stretched his arm out with a handful of bright lanyards like the ones I used to make when I was his age. He only said "two shekels". I kindly smiled and slowly shook my head, whispering "no thanks".

I don't know why I said no. Maybe I'm used to rejecting sales pitches. Maybe I wanted to save my money. But this was a little boy. And he only wanted two shekels. And he probably made the lanyards himself. 

I walked as I thought all this. After thirty seconds, I reached in my pocket and found two shekels, exactly. I quickly turned around and walked back to the boy with my shekels in hand. I wanted to buy a lanyard, maybe I'll give it to my little niece, I thought. I wanted to ask the boy about the lanyards. Maybe I'd make him happy because he'd know I appreciated his work so much I had to run back and buy one. Maybe he'd rush home after, feeling proud and talented.

When I walked back to the white chair he was sitting on, a deep lump of guilt rushed down my throat like a snake engulfing a dead, salty mouse. Then, a tiny speck of panic laced with sadness hit my chest. The storekeeper I previously talked to stood outside, so I asked him if he'd seen the boy. He looked confused, as in our conversations before, and said he hadn't seen any boy. Casually, he then responded with "maybe tomorrow he'll be back". I won't be there tomorrow.

I constantly looked back on my way out from the market, hoping to spot the boy. I never did. I had an opportunity and I didn't stop to think about it. Instead, I just continued on my way, only realizing what I really wanted after it was too late.

This is the story of my life. I always do this. I always want something after it's gone. What really kills me is my instincts, my habits kept me waiting. I scoffed off the little boy, rejected him, inadvertently told him his talent isn't worthy. 

To tell is straight, I missed a chance. As the storekeeper told me, there are no coincidences, only God. What if I somehow broke that string, cutting off a coincidence in the making? I probably dislocated a series of events waiting to happen. 


Wednesday, July 23, 2008

Strike a pose

I'm on a bus headed for Haifa. I think.

Yesterday, we went to a kibbutz where we spend a disgusting amount of time. The only thing that captured me was a photo of a woman from around 1912. She was a leader of a women's movement in the kibbutz at the time. Her photo was straight out of Vogue.


Sunday, July 20, 2008

If a ten-ton truck...


I was in a cab last night with Honorio, Kim, and Samitro on our way back to the hostel from Naharya. Three of us sat in the back, and Samitro in the front. The cab driver was friendly, but quiet. The moon was full and brilliant again, like it was bragging to us how beautiful it can be. 

On this trip, Samitro asked us what song we would use to describe life at that very instant. I said I would use "There is a Light that Never Goes Out" by The Smiths. It's a great song if you haven't listened I suggest it. Anyway, the lyrics go something like "...and if a double decker bus crashes into us, to die by your side would a heavenly way to die". I just soaked in the those lyrics and realized, finally, that I'm guaranteed to die one day. Then I started thinking that maybe I'm not taking enough chances in life and that I should be enjoying every breathing moment. It's ironic I thought about this while riding near the perfect coastline at night with the full moon's reflection shining on the Galilee Sea. Breathtaking scenery, good friends...and I'm thinking I'm not enjoying life enough.



Friday, July 18, 2008

New Jersey?

Yesterday I spend the day in Eliot. The place reminds me of a pseudo Las Vegas, but with a beach and minus the casinos. Some of us called it the Jersey Shore of Israel, but I couldn't really tell you if that's true because I've never been to Jersey or its shore. I didn't do much except go to the beach and soak the sun. I'm already dark as a Mexican could naturally be and there are still a dozen beach days ahead in Israel.

I didn't realize this program revolved around beaches. I can't even swim.

The Journey from Eliot to where I am now (northern tip of Israel) took about fourteen hours. It involved trains, cars, and buses to get from point A to point B. I don't understand. Israel is the size of New Jersey, how can one travel for fourteen hours on wheels?Yossi said he wanted us to experience the Israeli way by riding with soldiers and civilians. I guess traveling fourteen hours using three methods of transport is the Israeli way of life.

Really, and so far, the only time I've felt Israeli was when we stopped in Tel Aviv for a bus connection. Our bus was paralyzed in traffic. Yossi told us the police found suspicious boxes along the road, so they sealed off a few blocks of streets. Security here can't be joked with nor can it be taken lightly. You leave your bag behind in a food court and the police would have already preemptively blown it up before you can go back to get it.

This is just ordinary, everyday fact in Israeli life.

Tuesday, July 15, 2008

Books and Ashes

I'm riding an Israeli bus headed for Eilot. We are supposed to have a day and a half free from lectures and deep-guided tours. Amen. I know I speak for everyone when I say this break is much needed.

Today my group went to the Holocaust museum. The architecture is pretty and the message is sentimental. At first, I was uneasy about going through the museum because as a ten year old I remember getting headaches, having nightmares, and crying because that's when I first learned about the Holocaust.

Now as a 22 year old, I felt little emotion when I stepped into the museum. I walked through the galleries, read stories, gazed at pictures and still the only emotion I could muster was a default somber. I couldn't reach a deeper level of hurt, even when I saw pictures of victims who reminded me of my family.

When we left the museum we sat through a discussion by the regional leader of an Israeli settlement. The settler proposed a full Jewish state, a full occupation of Palestinian land, he labeled all Arabs as terrorists, he would offer them separate roads to travel on, and etc. etc. etc...

I couldn't help but think that maybe semi-extremist, peripheral views like the settler's are breeding grounds for hate and fear. And this thought brought me back to the Holocaust museum. That's when the levee broke and I felt the rush of emotion that abandoned me earlier.

The Round Table

I can't really remember much from last night, mostly from the combination of red wine and exhaustion.

We spent our free time at night looking for a place to get something to eat. We were hoping for a quaint restaurant, but settled for a pizza joint. The pizza wasn't bad at all and the price was do-able. Two slices of cheese and two Tuborg beers later, we were in love with life and in love with Jerusalem.

After dinner we ended up going to a grocery store where some vodka and red wine was purchased. We took it back to the hostel and swooned the night away on the patio.

By the end of the night I remember the clear blue ink sky with the bright moon. The full moon shined so bravely and its presence was so enormous, I swear I could have stepped onto the patio table and reach it on my tip toes.

Honorio brought out the hookah he bought that day at the market and we all sat around the table taking turns smoking the mango tobacco. It was just a few of us, Kim, Sonya, Samitro, and Shafik. We sat there, bathing in the cool breeze and talking about what we've been through during Israel. We talked about boys and girls. We talked about the Israeli/ Palestinian conflict. We talked about food and wildy drunken nights. We talked about what we wanted to be when we grew up. We talked about what we would do to make our world just a little better.

At one point, Kim suggested everyone in the world should "fuck it and hold hands". Absolutely perfect, I thought...the world needs leaders like us.

Sunday, July 13, 2008

Holy Cow

I'm sitting in a basement hall of a youth hostel in Jerusalem. This is our first day here and so far I'm enjoying it. Although you have to understand that we went from BeerSheva to Jerusalem. It's like going from Reno to Salt Lake City. BeerSheva is desert and there's little to do there, while Jerusalem is not so much desert and there's more to do (and it's ultra religous).

So the rest of the day is full of lectures and then we travel to the Western Wall.

Saturday, July 12, 2008

Friday, July 11, 2008

Infinite



I just had an Anthony Bourdain day.

The things I did in the last 24 hours for the first time (and for some quite possibly the last):

Wake up at 3:00AM sober
Hike up a mountain
Watch the sunrise
Hike up a stream
Float in the Dead Sea
Attend a Bedouin wedding
Eat a recently slaughtered lamb

We slept in the Bedouin tents after all this. Some of us couldn't sleep, others floated away into their dreams as soon as their head hit their pillow. I just lied there for a little with my eyes open and my iPod playing. I had to think about everything I had just done. It was possibly one of the most overwhelming days of my life. And I say that in the most positive terms. It was an infinite day. One that seemed like it would never end, one that I didn't want to end.

Eventually I pinched myself back to reality and went to sleep.

Thursday, July 10, 2008

Home-cooked art

So my bike ride yesterday was intense, scary, thrilling, physically daunting, and so much fun!


I just came back from a Bedouin neighborhood where we joined this amazing Palestinian family for dinner. The husband runs an art gallery displaying incredible works by him and other Palestinian artists. Everything was mind blowing, almost moving because I felt like I was standing in the middle of a true revolutionary. And speaking of amazing, his wife cooked us (25 people) this fabulous buffet of food. I forget the type of cuisine, it starts with an M, but besides that it was so great to sit down and have a home-cooked meal. A Palestinian home-cooked meal! You should have tasted this food, the smell alone would've made you melt. There was lamb (or beef, I'm not quite sure), rice, green beans, roasted chicken, salad, and homemade hummus (!) and homemade bread. The wife (who by the way is mother to 11 kids) also made this incredible cinnamon drink, served ice cold.

It was truly a moving dinner. When the sun turned orange in the evening, the wife opened the shutters all the way, exposing this fantastic sunset.

It was one of the most incredible meals I've had in a long time.

Wednesday, July 9, 2008

Sha-War-Ma

So far I've been eating hummus with every meal. It's beyond delicious the way it just coats my mouth. Mmm!

I just got back from the settlements. We took a bus from BeerSheeva to Palestine where we obviously had to cross the green line. The road was pretty quiet and and surprisingly well maintained. We learned it was a Jewish road so that explained the quality. Along the way I spotted camels, shephards, and Israeli soldiers. At one point we were standing outside the bus when four Israeli soldiers (uniforms, guns and all) asked what we were doing. Our tour 
guide Ilan, who happens to be a former soldier, explained to them that we were touring Palestine for a film he's working on. The film is about the Israeli army and it's getting some hot, controversial buzz already because it's semi anti-Israelish-army.

We visited a Palestinian family in their home (supported by solar and wind energy!) where they served us amazing tea and they talked about
the violence the settlers impose on the Palestinians. They had a few kids and I normally dislike children, but these kids were so cute. I took some pictures.


So I guess today was pretty intense, but now it seems to be winding down. I think I might go biking in the desert. I haven't been on a bike since middle school. I'm a little nervous my balance on two wheels won't be the same as it used to be.

Tuesday, July 8, 2008

<3

I'm enjoying Israel so much Boston seems like a distant daze right now. I miss Boston, but there's a certain feeling I get from Israel that is beyond magical to me. Maybe it's the land, maybe it's the group I'm with, maybe it's the hummus (!), but there's definitely an incredible aura here.

Don't Shave

I'm on a bus headed to an Israeli development town about an hour away from BeerSheva. I'm not really sure where we're going to be honest. As in I don't know the name of the town or what we're doing there.

Sheila just spoke on the bus PA telling us not to shave because we're going to the Dead Sea in a couple of days. I never thought I'd hear that advice.

What I ate today: potato pastry
(Update: said pastries are called burekas. I like to call them Barack Obamas)

Sunday, July 6, 2008

Soldier Boy

So here I am sun bathing next to the pool before my last lecture of the day. I can't swim, so I only go in the water to refresh myself and keep the others company. And to be honest, the pool is a major eye candy store so there's no reason to miss out.

We've been in BeerSheva a few days now and so far the lectures are fantastic. guy Ben Porat is a charming genius and his lectures stand out as some of the best I've had. Apart from Guy, we also had Ilan, or as we call him, "Soldier Boy". Ilan's presentation was the first that really opened my view to the Israel/Palestine conflict.

I've read a handful of books, taken a class about the conflict, and watched a few documentaries, but today was when I was closest to understanding. Ilan, a former Israeli soldier came to speak with us about his experiences in the army. He used to be right there in the West Bank securing checkpoints and patrolling the streets with his automatic. Now he's passionately involved in his new project, Break the Silence, that documents Israeli army treatment of Palestinians.

Yossi, our group leader, said we were going to watch a short movie and see some disturbing images. My mind immediately went to photos of dead babies lying on the streets. Once I saw Ilan's documentary and photos, I realized disturbing didn't mean gory, it meant unfortunate. They were photos of graffiti reading "Arabs to the gas chambers!", IDF soldiers with automatics standing next to children, Israeli settlers robbing Palestinian businesses while IDF soldiers stand there, unable to legally do anything about it.

Listening to Ilan speak about his project unraveled new perspectives inside of me about the IP conflict. After all, he's a former soldier who's passionate about his stories. I could see that in his eyes when our group took a break from the classroom and sat outside on the grass. We sat in a circle, Ilan spoke quietly, the breeze swept past us, and the sun began its orange sunset glow.

Monday, June 30, 2008

Israel Packing List Extraordinaire 2008!!!

Dress Clothes
Slacks
Dress shirt (2?)
2 Ties
Dress shoes
Belt
Vest
Tops
Purple collard
teal, yellow, red and every American Apparel tee you have, brown v-neck, Yeah Yeah Yeahs concert tee
Unmentionables
Tank tops
Seven pairs of undies
Seven pairs of socks (including the ankle kind!)
Sleeping shorts
Shoes
Chanclas
Converse
Diesels
Pants
My "jeens"
Plaid shorts
Toiletries
Shampoo, toofbrush, conditioner, toofpaste, hair product, facial wash, lip chap, shaving stuffs,  nail clippers, tweezums, facial lotion, body lotion
Meds
Clariton-D
Vitamin B6
Emergen C
Painkillers (consult Honorio)
Misc.
Camera (with charger and delete those pictures...)
Passport
Bank stuffs
Canteen
A smile